Game Boy DMG-01 modding step by step guide

Last update: January 5, 2022

Game Boy Modding & RepairsGood news, everyone. I wrote a book about Game Boy modding and Repairs.

The thing is, I was going to update this page since it’s the single most visited page on my site. But as I kept writing it became larger and larger, because I wanted to cover all the tips and tricks that I have learned over the years. After a while, I had written so much and taken so many new photos that I got the idea to turn it into a book instead. So there you have it.

It’s called Game Boy Modding and Repairs: A step-by-step guide for beginners. I hope you want to support me and check it out. It’s an e-book that works on your mobile phone, tablet, Kindle, etc and it’s only $10.59.

The step-by-step guide

Here is a step-by-step guide for modding the classic Game Boy DMG-01. Instead of going into details about the obvious mods, like replacing the screen (cover), buttons, and silicon parts, I will focus on the more technical aspects of modding. Got any questions not covered in this tutorial? Check out my book, or go to my official Facebook page, click like and ask me. Also, don’t forget to check out my music on Spotify.

Procedures

How to install a backlight
How to install a bivert chip
How to do the Prosound to headphones mod
How to do the bass mod
How to do the Decoupling capacitor on the powerstrip mod
Final results

What you need before getting started

  • Game Boy DMG-01
  • Soldering iron or Soldering station, preferably one with variable temperature
  • Solder wire
  • Desolder braid
  • Scalpel
  • Tri-point Y1 screwdriver
  • Cross screwdriver
  • Wire
  • Flush cutter
  • Isopropanol
  • Cotton swabs
  • Polishing cloth
  • Game Boy Backlight kit
  • Game Boy Bivert chip
  • 1 Electrolytic capacitor 1000uF, 10V minimum
  • 2 Electrolytic capacitors 10uF, 10V minimum

How to install a backlight

1. Remove the polarizing film and reflective layer on the backside of the screen

Open up your Game Boy and remove all the screws from the two boards, then pull out the ribbon cable connecting the two halves.

Remove the two small screws below the screen. Carefully lift up the screen using a screwdriver or a small spatula tool in the little notch in the top of the plastic frame. There will be a little resistance because of two small adhesive pillows on the inside. When you have pulled up the screen enough to see them both, carefully remove them with a pair of tweezers.

Now you are going to pull off the polarizing film and reflective layer while trying not to break the screen and the solder points underneath the screen. This part can be a bit tricky so if it’s your first time I recommend first try it out on the screen that is already broken beyond repair, for example, one with screen cancer.

Game Boy Backlight mod

The polarizer and reflective layer are glued together.  You will remove both of them in one take by inserting a sharp knife like a scalpel in the top left corner. The trick not to scratch the screen is to press in the knife just a few millimeters where the layers meet the glass. Then use the knife, carefully pushing the material away from the screen so that it opens up a corner big enough for you to grab with your thumb and index finger. Once you can grab it, start slowly pulling away more by moving your thumb inwards and along the sides of the screen.

The process of removing the polarizer and reflective layer can be anything from quick and simple to very hard, depending on the stickiness of the glue. I have found that the newer models of the DMG-01, the so-called Play it loud editions usually are the easiest ones to work with, in terms of removal time and amounts of glue that are left to be dealt with afterward.

Try not to exert too much force on the screen so that it bends. If it bends too much it will snap and become unusable. That happened to me once. That popping sound is not something I would like to hear ever again when doing a backlight mod… Also, try not to put too push the screen too much away from the frame as this may damage the fine solder points under the screen. More about that later.

Game Boy Backlight mod

Here you can see how I have slowly and carefully worked my way towards the other side of the screen.

2. Clean the screen

With the polarizer layers finally off, in best case scenario there is almost no glue on the screen. The cleaning process can take anything from 10 minutes to an hour depending on the amount of glue left on the screen.

Use plenty of Isopropanol and cotton swabs in a circular motion to loosen up the glue and then drag the bits of glue off the screen. You may have to go through three to twenty cotton swabs depending on how much glue is left. The goal here is to remove all of it and that may take some time if you are unlucky.

Game Boy Backlight mod

When all the glue has been removed, there will still be some residue from the isopropanol on the screen. Clean that off with a very fine polishing cloth, like the one you would use to polish a car. Do not use toilet paper or something like that since that could scratch the inside of your screen. I use a technique where I apply some of my breath to it and quickly and carefully clean with the polishing cloth.

Game Boy Backlight mod

When you have cleaned and polished the inside of the screen it should look like this. You should see no streaks, dots, smudges or fibres left from the cotton swabs, even if you hold it up to the light.

3. Cut a hole in the plastic frame for the backlight connector

Use a small wirecutter tool to cut off a bit of the plastic big enough for the backlight connector to fit.

Game Boy Backlight mod

4. Solder the resistor and wire

I always use backlights from Deadpan Robot. It comes with a resistor that needs to be soldered to the connector where it says plus (+).

I have found that doing it like depicted in the picture below is the easiest and fastest way. Solder the resistor directly to the connector on the backlight and then bend it almost 90 degrees to the right.

Game Boy Backlight mod

5. Install the backlight and solder the resistor and other wire to the board

Install the backlight by sliding it into the plastic frame under the screen. Remove the protective sheets on the polarizer and slide it in over the backlight, making sure you don’t scratch it. On the backlight type I use there is a blue stripe on the polarizer which indicates its backside. Also, make sure the screen becomes dark blue after you have inserted the polarizer. If it’s not dark blue then take it out again, flip it 90 degrees and insert.

Now solder the resistor and the black wire to the board, like in the image below. It’s easier if you use a pair of tweezers to hold them in place as you solder. You may need to apply some new solder to make them stay.

Reconnect the CPU board with the display board, put them in your case without screwing everything back together, insert batteries and start up the Game Boy to see if it’s working. If it doesn’t look anything like the image below then something is wrong.

Game Boy Backlight mod

Closeup of the solder points for the backlight

How to install a bivert chip

Now it’s time to put in the bivert chip. This will make the Game Boy video look crispier and with less ghosting. The bivert chip is pre-installed on a tiny circuit board that you just solder in place.

1. Desolder pins 6 and 7 on the video connector

Locate the video connector and desolder pins 6 and 7, as shown in the image below. I have tried different techniques on how to desolder them without breaking anything. I’ve found that the quickest way is to press a scalpel to one of the solder joints, then hold the tip of the soldering iron on it, while I gently prying the scalpel underneath it. The goal here is to bend the two pins upwards and break their existing connection to the board.

2. Solder the pins to the bivert chip and the other solder points

When both pins 6 and 7 are de-soldered and slightly bent upwards I put in the bivert chipboard and re-solder both pins to it. It’s pretty small and tricky so you may need to use a magnifying glass here. When both pins are soldered I then continue with the other four points on the bivert chipboard.

Game Boy Backlight and Bivert mod

3. Reconnect the Game Boy

It’s time to see if the video is still working. If it looks like the image below then you are in the clear.

Game Boy Backlight and Bivert mod

How to do the Prosound to headphones mod

With the pro sound mod, you get a better-sounding Game Boy. It’s done by sending the sound directly to the headphones, bypassing some internal circuitry that otherwise adds unwanted noise.

Game Boy Prosound mod

This one is so easy I won’t write a step by step for it. Just cut and remove the two black wires shown in the image. Then solder two new wires as also shown in the image.

Game Boy Prosound mod

Solder the black wire to solder point number 3 and the red wire to solder point number 4. They are pretty small so what I do first apply some solder to them. I keep the tip of the wires pretty small and apply solder to them before soldering them onto the board. Be careful not to hold the iron for very long on the solder points or you may break them. They are very tiny and delicate.

When done, reconnect the Game Boy and start it up with a game. Listen to the sound and try lowering and boosting the volume to make sure there are no crackles and other strangeness going on soundwise. Also, try out with the headphones to make sure you have sound there as well.

How to do the bass mod

The bass mod adds a bit of sub-bass in the lower ranges, like 40-50 Hz. You would typically need a good pair of headphones or a sub to notice the change, but it will definitely sound beefier on a club sound system.

Game Boy Bass mod

1. Locate the two 1 uF capacitors on the CPU board

You will find them close to the volume wheel.

Game Boy Bass mod

2. Desolder the capacitors

Turn the board and desolder the two capacitors. The easiest way is to use a desoldering braid. Make sure it’s not too big. I think the one in the image above is something like 2 – 2.5 mm wide. If possible, lower the heat on your solder station a bit, place the braid on a solder point and put the solder iron over it. These points are delicate and pretty easy to break if you apply too much heat for too long, so try to be careful with this one.

Game Boy Bass mod

3. Remove the old capacitors and solder new ones

When desoldered, it should look something like the image above. Turn the board, remove the old capacitors and put in two 10uF instead, making sure to put the leg for + where it says + on the board.

Game Boy Bass mod

4. Success

New 10uF capacitors are soldered in place and the solder joints are looking good.

Bass mod completed.

How to do the decoupling capacitor mod on the power strip

This mod is done to improve sound quality after having installed the pro sound and backlight mod.

First, you need to get hold of an electrolytic capacitor in the range of at least 500-600 uF, although I recommend going for a 1000uF. I have tried different values and found that 1000uF produces the best results, in regards to the reduction of hiss and noise.

Game Boy Decoupling capacitor mod

1. Solder wires to the capacitor

Start by soldering a black wire to the minus pin (the shorter pin) and then a red wire to the plus. Although not totally necessary I always also add a couple of shrink tubes to minimize the risk for shorts.

2. Solder the wires to the powerstrip

Locate the power strip. Solder the red wire to where it says VCC and the black wire to GND. Done!

Game Boy Decoupling capacitor mod

Final results

Before putting everything back together in the shell, make sure one last time that everything is working as it should. Put in a game and let it run for a while. When you are certain everything is OK, screw everything back together and enjoy your modded Game Boy.

I hope you enjoyed my modding guide. If you are having any problems or perhaps suggestions for things I could add to this guide, please let me know on my Facebook page. Also, I would be super happy if you could please head over to my Spotify page, and click Follow. Thank you in advance. It really means a lot to me.

Game Boy modded open

Game Boy DMG-01 modded yellow and cyan

August 18th, 2019|Blog, DIY, Gameboy, Modding, Retro|

My latest refurbishing project: The Braun SK-2 from 1955

After completing around 25 projects refurbishing and modding old Gameboys I took a bit of a pause to do something else.

I set my sight on old transistor radios. I previously did a re-capping of the Braun T220 and after that project was done I bought an 1955 Braun SK2 on Ebay that was in need of a lot of love.

I won’t lie, this project has taken forever to finish. I did all the rookie mistakes, but hey that’s the best way to learn something new, isn’t it. Finally it’s completed and I can show you some photos. And if I may say so myself, damn it’s beautiful.

This is what I did:

  • Glued and fixed a crack in the case.
  • Removed all the yellowed paint on the case and front.
  • Removed the original weave on the back of the front.
  • Repainted the front with a semigloss white paint.
  • Spray glued a new fine weave made of white linen on the backside of the front.
  • Repainted the case with three coats of matte white paint, then water-sanded with a 1200 sandpaper.
  • Scanned the original paper dial, which was very yellowed and with almost unreadable text. Cleaned up the image in Photoshop then printed a new one in high quality. I carefully sprayed the paper with a sealer and finally glued it to the front.

 

August 2nd, 2019|Blog, Design, DIY, Hardware, Retro|

Repairing the 1961 transistor radio Braun T220

My blue 1961 transistor radio Braun T220 works pretty good but since I’m planning to put it on Ebay I decided it was time to do the electronics versions of an oil change: The re-cap. Changing all the capacitors.

Opening it up I could find eight metal capacitors and one biggie made out of paper. When old gear is failing, the first suspect is almost always the electrolytic capacitors. I have previously repaired a Samsung monitor and a Samsung TV where the only fault was a couple of bulging caps. Total cost to fix that was under a dollar.

 


All the old capacitors from the Braun T220

In this case where the radio is close to 60 years, there is no reason to keep any of the old caps. If they haven’t completely failed yet it’s just a matter of time and if you would measure their values they are probably all over the place. It wasn’t that much work. It took me around three hours to de-solder all of them and putting in brand new ones. I had to be extra careful not to break any of the many thin copper wires that were soldered left and right in a way you don’t see in newer tech.

 


The inside of the Braun T220, before the re-cap

Powering on the T220 again I was very happy to find that everything was working and the FM signal now was much stronger than before. Also the sound volume was louder and clearer in a way that I had not anticipated. I guess the radio now sounds like it did when it was new in 1961.

All in all the whole process was pretty fun and much easier than what I had imagined it would be. Everything turned out great, which is not always the case when you start poking around in ancient tech.

 

The inside of the Braun T220, post re-cap

March 2nd, 2019|Blog, Design, DIY, Hardware, Retro|

Finished another modded Game Boy DMG-01

Check out this Game Boy that I modded recently. It’s an original red Play it loud shell with new yellow buttons and golden screen. All the usual mods of course: Backlight screen, Bivert chip, Prosound, Less noise and new silicon parts. I enjoyed doing one that really looks like a 90s toy

January 8th, 2019|Blog, DIY, Gameboy, Retro|

I’m building the BASTL Cinnamon State Variable Filter

This lazy Sunday I’m building the DIY kit version of the BASTL Voltage Controlled State Variable Filter for Eurorack.

It’s one of the missing pieces in my Eurorack system since I don’t have any good stand-alone filter. Actually I bought it about a month ago but I have been setting this aside until the new website was finished and launched. I expect this build to take around 2-3 hours.

Here is a video from BASTL where they demonstrate the Cinnamon.

 

January 6th, 2019|Blog, DIY, Hardware, modular|

Retro-modding old Game Boys to look good and sound great

One of my little past time hobbies for the last 6 months or so has been modding old Nintendo Game Boy DMG-01. Here are some of the nicest looking ones that I’ve done.

They all have similar internal mods, which usually are: Better visuals in the form of a backlight device and a bivert chip. Better sound with the so called Prosound mod, Bass mod and power strip capacitor mod to reduce noise and hiss.

I also always replace the internal silicon parts and the screen that covers the LCD display. Last and probably most important is to make the shell look cool which is either done by modifying the shell in some way or just finding the right combination of original shell color, screen and buttons. I gave also done some experiments with spray painting. The finish of the Game Boy at the top of this post was done by spray painting real aluminium spray two times. Two layers of coating was then added to make sure that the color stays on with use. It was a lot of work but I think the result was really good. The aluminium particles made it glitter in sunlight.

The result of my modding is something that you can use to plays the old classic Game Boy games and actually see what is happening on the screen without being in direct sunlight or under a lamp. Also the sound is of course much better: bassier and clearer.

January 4th, 2019|Blog, DIY, Gameboy, Retro|

I’m still alive

I noticed I haven’t been posting here in a while so here’s a little update to what I’ve been up to lately.

First of all, I have spent A TON of my spare time on building that Arp 2600 clone called the TTSH, or Two Thousand Six Hundred. It’s a massive build and I’m almost finished with it now. I will post some more pictures and sounds when the case and everything is done.

Also I switched jobs recently, so I’m now I’m back working with what you call User Experience (UX) and User Interface (UI) Design for E-commerce. I have been there for four months now, so a lot of my creative energy have been directed towards that. I’m a senior in this area and it’s something I have been working professional with for over 20 years now.

The next album is still in the works. Gotta finish it now, I know..

I have started building a TTSH Arp 2600 clone

My big DYI synth project for this winter/spring is putting together the Arp 2600 clone TTSH (Two Thousand Six Hundred). First phase was done yesterday – finishing the three analog oscillators. Next up, soldering the 4012 filter.

January 22nd, 2017|DIY, modular, Synthesizer|
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